Lake Millstätter See
Seeing the sights, discovering local heritage and stopping off every now and again for a swim may sound like wishful thinking, but not here in Carinthia. Austria’s southernmost province has the best of both worlds: it not only boasts 200 crystal-clear lakes, but is also a cultural treasure trove. In fact, it has the highest concentration of art treasures in Austria. And after visiting castles, churches and cathedrals, what could be better than a refreshing dip in lovely warm water.
“Ein Schloss am Wörthersee (A castle on lake Wörthersee)” was the title of a popular TV series on Austrian television. Although the story was completely fictitious, the Imperial yellow Renaissance castle where it was filmed still stands in the elegant resort of Velden today. Today a hotel, accommodating such illustrious guests as the Duke of Windsor, Princess Soraya and Hollywood star Kirk Douglas.
Velden is still frequented by the rich and famous who are often to be seen at Velden Casino, which is open all year round, or sipping cocktails on its lakeside terrace. The Schloss is also an ideal starting point for discovering the cultural heritage around Lake Wörthersee. A relaxing way is to begin is to take a trip on one of the Wörthersee pleasure boats, which stop off in front of Schloss Velden. From the lake you get impressive views of the typical Wörthersee architecture dating back to the turn of the last century. One of the most charming buildings of the many summer villas on the waterfront is the Werzer Lido. The special atmosphere here also inspired Johannes Brahms. “Yes, Lake Wörthersee is virgin territory where the melodies fly around so much that you have to be careful not to stifle any,” said Brahms who came to Lake Wörthersee to compose for many years from 1877. His composing house and the annual Brahms Music Festival are a reminder to this day. Another leading Austrian composer, Gustav Mahler, spent the summer at Maiernigg on the southern shores of Lake Wörthersee from 1900 to 1907. The Gustav Mahler composing house in the woods is now a small museum with copies of his scores. Here Mahler wrote his Fourth, the beginning of the Fifth and the Eighth Symphony.
Prominently situated on a rock on the southern shores of Lake Wörthersee stands the little church of Maria Wörth. A picturesque village surrounds it on the peninsula, which is one of the most renowned beauty spots in Carinthia and very popular for weddings. The church is worth visiting for the statue of the Virgin Mary on the baroque high altar, which is regarded as one of Carinthia’s finest gothic wood carvings. For a virtually breathtaking panorama of Lake Wörthersee and the Carinthian landscape, go to the top of the Pyramidenkogel, a hill overlooking the lake with an observation tower.
Often referred to as the “Rose of Lake Wörthersee” is the Provincial Capital of Klagenfurt, which lies on the Wörthersee and has the largest lakeside lido in Europe. Now with a population of 100,000, Klagenfurt was built by Italian architects in the 16th and 17th centuries and still exudes Mediterranean flair today. Where according to legend a dragon once lived, you can now explore the old town with its narrow streets, over 50 idyllic inner courtyards, arcades, churches, town houses, cafés and boutiques. One of the greatest attractions in the capital is a visit to Minimundus, the “little world on Lake Wörther See”. It features over 170 miniature models of the most famous buildings in the world built in amazing detail on a scale of 1:25, inviting you to take a round-the-world trip with a difference.
Carinthia – a Historical Treasure Chamber
It is only about half-an-hour’s drive from the Wörthersee and the many other scenic lakes in Central Carinthia to the region’s most impressive castle, Burg Hochosterwitz, which lies due north of the provincial capital of Klagenfurt. Perched on a rock, the fortress towers dramatically over the surrounding plain. Its strategic position and 14 solid gates ensured that no enemy ever succeeded in taking the castle. Today you can safely take the wide path or even the “Knight’s Lift” up to the inner courtyard where an interesting museum displays a suit of armour belonging to Carinthia’s biggest man at that time – an amazing two metres tall.
The road to Burg Hochosterwitz runs through the Zollfeld, a fertile plain that has played a significant role throughout Carinthia’s history. Celts and Romans, Slavs and Carolingians all left their mark on the Zollfeld and the surrounding hills. In Maria Saal the two mighty spires of Carinthia’s most prominent church can be seen from far and wide. A few kilometres further north on the Zollfeld stands the Herzogstuhl, a massive double throne made of Roman stones. The Ducal Throne is one of the most important monuments to the history of law in Europe: in the Middle Ages it was here that the Dukes of Carinthia administered justice and granted fiefs.
Much earlier, in Roman times, Virunum, the capital of the Province of Noricum, stretched out over the Zollfeld. On Magdalensberg, a hill above the Zollfeld, you can explore the remains of the late-Celtic, early-Roman settlement in the Archaeological Park.
Carinthia’s Gurktal Valley and the historic town of Friesach still give you an impression of life in the Middle Ages today. The world famous Gurk Cathedral, regarded as a prime example of Romanesque architecture, also houses one of the most celebrated Lenten cloths in the Alps. Especially noteworthy is the crypt with its vaults supported by 100 shimmering marble columns.
The town of Friesach has retained much of its medieval appearance, including the castle moat. It is a lovely place to wander round, enjoying the local colour, but spare a little more time for the churches. St. Veit/Glan, near Friesach holds another attraction: an “art” hotel in which the 1,100 sq m facade, 500 sq m of Tiffany glass and 110 sq m of stained glass create an unusual and fascinating atmosphere.
A trip through the Görtschitztal Valley takes you to Hüttenberg. Once a flourishing mining centre after the Celts found iron ore, it was known as “the iron heart” of Carinthia. Hüttenberg is also the birthplace and home of the famous explorer and ethnologist Heinrich Harrer. Artefacts and souvenirs from his trips to Tibet, New Guinea, Africa and South America fill the Heinrich Harrer Museum, which was opened in the presence of the Dalai Lama in 1993.
Around Lakes Faaker See and Ossiacher See
Mountains and lakes abound in the region round Villach, Lake Ossiacher See and Lake Faaker See. With 55,000 inhabitants, Villach is Carinthia’s second largest town and because of its proximity to Italy and its Mediterranean charm is also known as the “Gateway to the South”. Explore the interesting churches and the Villach Museum of Transport or simply stroll through the attractive old town. Warmbad Villach was famous for its hot springs in Romans times and is now an international spa. The thermal baths with flume, sauna and fitness centre are open to the public all year round.
Every year concerts are held in the Abbey at Ossiach Benedictine Monastery during the internationally renowned “Carinthian Summer” music festival. Such stars as pianist Rudolf Buchbinder and opera diva Grace Bumbry make regular appearances.
The summer festival programme at Finkenstein Castle Arena ranges from cabaret, musical and jazz to opera. At an altitude of 850 metres, the arena commands a stunning view of Lake Faaker See and has a capacity of over 1000. Whatever the event, the venue alone makes it worthwhile.
Overlooking Villach are Landskron Castle ruins, once a splendid Renaissance fortress. It now houses a restaurant with a panoramic terrace and regular medieval banquets. Birds of prey are also kept here and the old skills of falconry are demonstrated in daily displays. At the foot of the castle is the Monkey Park with Japanese macaques, a great favourite especially among younger visitors. Some 5 km from Landskron is the village of Treffen and the Elli Riehl Museum. Hundreds of little dolls made from cloth scraps depict scenes typical of local life past and present.
One of the most idyllic spots in Carinthia is to be found in Egg on Lake Faaker See. Here stands Carinthia’s most frequently photographed wayside shrine with its many scenes from the Old and New Testament. In addition to the Baroque art, you can also enjoy the picturesque view of the turquoise blue lake with the Mittagskogel towering up majestically behind.
From Villach and Lake Faaker See it is not far to the Valley Rosental, a valley at the foot of the Karawanken Range. A good way to explore the area is by bike as an excellent cycle path runs along the River Drau. Many castles in private hands are now on the “Rosental Castle Trail” and open their doors to visitors. Behind the walls are often some unexpected sights – such as a waxworks museum and a wildlife park in Schloss Rosegg or a remarkable art gallery in Schloss Ebenau. A bee-keeping museum, the gunsmiths’ museum in Ferlach and the idyllic Tscheppaschlucht Gorge encourage you to linger in the valley.
Northwest of Villach and Lake Ossiacher See lies Bad Kleinkirchheim, a popular holiday resort and spa. Austria’s oldest health spa boasts two thermal baths – Römerbad and Kathreintherme – where you can relax and be pampered in supreme comfort. Bad Kleinkirchheim offers various leisure activities both in summer and in winter with golf, skiing, cross-country and riding. If you are staying at one of the hotels during the “all-inclusive weeks” the resort facilities are all free of charge. Near Bad Kleinkirchheim, in the Nockberge National Park, you will also find Austria’s oldest country spa, Karlbad.
Around Lake Millstätter See
Relax, sunbathe and swim in the lake during the day and enjoy a concert or the theatre in the evening: all possible if you choose a holiday on Lake Millstätter See. Millstatt Abbey with its noteworthy cloister stages a number of cultural events every year. Of these the most celebrated is the “Millstatt Music Festival” from May to October with its programme of string concerts and organ recitals. Balmy summer evenings also provide the perfect setting for theatre at the Renaissance Palace of Porcia in nearby Spittal/Drau. Under starry midnight blue skies with a backdrop of Renaissance arcades and thick castle walls light-hearted comedies attract audiences from near and far.
The medieval town of Gmünd with its four mighty gates is always worth a visit. Ferdinand Porsche had a design office here from 1944 to 1950 where he built the first prototype of the Porsche 356. Aficionados can admire the comprehensive collection of cars at the Porsche Automobile Museum all year round.
Just outside Gmünd lies the unique divided church, the Kreuzbichl Chapel. Strange to relate, a road really does run through the church, dividing the transept from the nave.
Now known as the “Valley of the Babies”, the Lieser and Maltatal valleys cater specially for family holidays. A scenic panoramic route, the Malta High Alpine Road, takes you past spectacular waterfalls to the amazing Kölnbrein Dam. The 200-metre-high dam wall is open to the public and the restaurant runs a National Park cinema with a multimedia show on hydroelectric power.
Around the Southern Carinthian lakes
Ideal for swimming, lakes Klopeiner See and Turner See both reach a temperature of up to 29 degrees Celsius in summer. If you want to cool down, you can head for the Obir Caves, one of the most impressive natural wonders in Austria. A 1.3-kilometre-long walk takes you through the bizarre world of stalactites and stalagmites. Other caves worth seeing in the region are to be found at Griffen, the birthplace of writer Peter Handke.
The splendid three-storey arcades in Eberndorf Abbey play host to the “Southern Carinthian Summer Festival” in July and August with theatre, exhibitions and jazz concerts.
Another worthwhile trip is to Carinthia’s Lavanttal Valley, which is also known as “Cider Paradise” because of the many apple trees. The “Ciderland Express”, a tourist train, stops off at schnapps distilleries and inviting fruit farm inns, which also serve cold platters of local produce.
One of the finest collections of sacral art in Austria is to be found at the Benedictine Abbey of St. Paul in the Lavanttal Valley where interesting exhibitions are held regularly. Particularly worth seeing is the library which contains some 60,000 volumes and the most important collection of old manuscripts after the National Library in Vienna. The Abbey owned one of the 42-line Gutenberg Bibles, but had to sell it to Library of Congress before the war. Today the US presidents swear their oath on this Bible. But even without it, the Benedictine Abbey is rightly known as the “Treasure House of Carinthia.”
Around Lake Weissensee and the Lesachtal Valley
Nestling in the Upper Carinthian mountains lies the Weissensee, Carinthia’s highest altitude recreational lake (930 m). In summer its crystal-clear, turquoise blue water warms up to around 24 degrees Celsius, while in winter the lake freezes over to become the largest constantly frozen area of ice in Europe. Its unspoilt beauty has won the Weissensee the “European Prize for the Environment and Tourism”. The nearby Lesachtal Valley, one of the most intact alpine regions, has also earned the “Landscape of the Year” award. Surrounded by mighty peaks in the “Valley of the Hundred Mills”, as the Lesachtal Valley is called because of its many water mills, is the old village of Maria Luggau. It was here that Pope John Paul II made the baroque pilgrimage church of Maria Schnee a basilica in 1986 – incidentally the only basilica in Carinthia.
Dramatic peaks
In the Mölltal Valley the craggy peaks rise up to two and three thousand metres above sea level. Towering above them all is the Grossglockner, at 3,798 metres the highest mountain in Austria. Nowadays the ascent to the pass is much easier on the Grossglockner High Alpine Route. Museums and placards along the road explain the natural wonders to be found here. Not to be missed when in the area is the Raggaschlucht Gorge near Flattach, one of the most spectacular ravines in Austria that you can walk through.
The fascination of the Grossglockner, as alive today as ever, even affected those of noble birth. Emperor Francis Joseph I and his wife Elizabeth (Sisi) journeyed to the Grossglockner to see the Pasterze Glacier in 1856. In four hours the Emperor climbed from Heiligenblut to the ridge that has since been called Franz-Josefs-Höhe (Francis Joseph Heights) spending over two hours there – silent and full of reverence. Empress Elizabeth, on horseback, turned back a little earlier, at the spot where the Alpine Club built the Glockner House 20 years later. From Franz-Josefs-Höhe you catch the first glimpse of Austria’s largest glacier, the impressive 9.4 km long Pasterze.
